In the morning at the buffet, it is as though a thick fog permeates throughout the expansive concrete room. Most of the crowd is pushing its way unsteadily towards tables and chairs where they can anchor themselves for a feeding at the trough. The buffet room is actually more of a hall. It is pretty much central in the midst of the Russian 1960s era concrete tourist blocks here in Varadero Cuba. There is a little bit of wood trim here and there, mostly around the windows and doors. Tiled floors glisten as a result of the hard labour carried on by the smiling, poorly paid Cubans.
The long tables have been more or less reserved by the French and Italian, elderly long term tourists from Quebec and Ontario. They seem oblivious to the ever changing wave of new comers that check in to Mar Del Sur on weekly or two week all inclusive vacation packages. The old retired folks pull prod and push each other along with the use of canes and the odd wheelchair. They are like sharks ready for the kill in their strategy at the buffet. They pretty much know what to expect and they have an eye for the best pickings. They are fast in their draw for a plate and then it is straight to the meat, pasta, potatoes and vegetables at the hot buffet. Then they pick their way through the vegetables. Before they start into the main course they pounce on the dessert stand and make away with badly butchered pieces of iced cake and assorted pastries.
Some of them have more of a taste for adventure and they stalk the little Cuban chef at the barbecue stand outside while he turns pieces of red flesh into charcoaled pork chops, hamburgers and sausage. He does all this with no conversation. Unless you have been tipping him, everyone is on equal footing.
The Reiki Spirit lady moves about the room. She looks like a ghostly apparition. Her hair is white and done up in a bun at the back. She looks to be about 75 years of age and she has a perpetual smile but it does not camouflage her nasty beady little eyes. She wears wispy dresses and seems to float around the buffet like a witch queen. She gropes everyone that comes within a foot of her. The groping is masked as sympathetic, holier then thou, lit from within self promotion. She is like a leech reaching out to suck on the good nature of anyone that comes into her realm. She is the buffet witch queen.
Her cohort is a tiny woman also in her 70s. She seems almost sculpted in a tacky Barbie doll fashion. She too is lit from within and holds herself in an upright and determined manner as she skitters about the buffet tables sneering at everyone from behind a plastic looking face. She props up the spirit lady, buffet witch queen at every turn, with every raise of a fork to a mouth or some cackle ridden words of holier then thou wisdom. She is the straight man of the non-comical duo. The two feed on each other when not tackling some bony piece of meat from the buffet. It is miraculous that they ever found each other and a sad reality for all those that are touched by this schizoid partnership.
The fat old retirees pretty much keep to themselves. They don’t fool around. They are here for the long term and it’s in and out scheduled around the demands of 80 year old bladders and life sustaining pharmaceuticals. Most of the old men look like bowling balls with feet and their wives like crusty hens. Here and there, there are younger families with smaller children, young couples and the adventurous singles.
A young and hip Torontonian moves about as though somewhere a remote were controlling him. He is friendly enough in some unbalanced manner. He is up and down like a yo-yo. He is pensive and articulate in one moment and erratic and mentally disordered in another. He is very determined yet with no direction. He seemed to like us right away. He had decided that we were going to be friends and he was somewhat set back when we didn’t bite. I know the template, I have seen it before. He is all about ‘what you can do for me’.
The first night we met him at the check in desk, he nervously snuck around hoping that something would click. He just about jumped a couple of girls from Norway. Then again they were drunk. He got laid that night but he probably didn’t feel anything because he continued to lurk around the buffet tables with great intention yet no idea why. We were always fending him off and he always seemed to be surprised that we didn’t want to take care of him and worship the very ground that he walked on. He was tall, almost sickly thin and had black hair on his chest. He was always somewhere between drunk, drugged and caffeinated to the extreme which made him confused, erratic, unstable and anxious. He spoke in terms of a hope of creating an image of someone else, someone more together, witty and confident. But he was like the little birds on the buffet hall floor darting here and there in search of a crumb.
I was singing about the strange looking sweet potatoes and the mysterious meat hash when the gargantuan stud next to me commented “vous chante bien”. I looked up at him and said “thanks, I was just singing about the food”. He smiled knowingly. He was a huge man who filled out a tight t-shirt and skin tight denim shorts. He was probably 60 years of age but he carried his time well. He was all about macho with white curly hair, his strong square face and a cow horn moustache. Try as he might, he could not hide his soft heart and gentle demeanor. He had been wandering around the past few days with the most outrageous person.
His partner was something else. No doubt the couple stood out. She was perhaps a he or he was perhaps a she. I was not sure and we never really figured it out. She/he was black and almost purple black. She/he was just as big as her white Quebecois stud, stocky and sturdy. She had big solid cartoonesque tits, draped in a bikini tight top with silver and gold patterns on it that drew your eyes to her taught bullet like nipples. She/he wore the shortest skirts I have ever seen. They were skin tight and did not do much to hide her/his enormous butt and muscular thighs. She/he had a beautiful head of straight shoulder length black hair. Even if she/he were looking at you, she/he didn’t seem to recognize that you were there. It seemed to be everything she/he could do to stand up and walk with the weight of the world on her/his strong back yet, it pushed she/he down. The weight of who she/he was and where she/he came from bent her/him forward and she/he walked awkwardly trying to catch up to her/himself on flashy bizarre high heels. It was as though she/he were walking on stilts and afraid of toppling over at every step. She/he always seemed to be reaching out with her muscular arms in an effort to balance her teetering body as she/he raced in pursuit of her/himself on these stilts. At the buffet she/he teetered precariously and people made way for her/him. Still they made a nice couple.
The incredible value packed all inclusive packages offered by the Mar Del Sur drew a host of trailer park white trash. They smoked, drank and swore themselves silly 24 hours a day. Unless you were drunk or wrecked there was no way you could be anywhere close to their radar screen. They were in another realm stupefied by alcohol, nicotine and caffeine. They didn’t really go anywhere and they didn’t really do anything other then sit around the all inclusive bar by the pool during the day and evening. At night they moved to the 24 hour all inclusive bar near the front desk and lobby. When people are that drunk they can only communicate with those in a similar reality. So they hung in trailer park white trash circles that revolved around the free domestic beer and hard stuff.
Then there were the fast drinking hormone ridden, bright and bushy tailed young men on the move. Although most of their waking day centered around getting drunk, their second passion revolved around getting laid. The two worked well together and within a day or two, most of these guys had managed to snag one of the desperate and hopeful young Cuban resort service workers from either the front lobby, the waiting crew, the bar crew or the cleaning staff. Although you could tell most of these young women had been used and abused by the fun seeking tourist boys, they just couldn’t seem to give up having one more go at their dream. All of them were sure that one day one of these visiting buckaroos would sweep them away to Canada, France or Italy and make all their dreams come true. Instead, most of the time, they ended up with disappointment and an empty feeling unless of course they have not been careful and then their stomachs bore the fruit of their dreams.
Like the strange combinations of vegetables, meats, fish and pasta at the buffet table, the visiting tourists somehow seemed pretty much the same under the hot Cuban sun.even though they were different nationalities, colours, ages and sizes. They were almost transparent in their blandness. No matter what they looked like they were all the same. It was all about escape. They were cheating death, taunting death, skirting death, living dead and perhaps trying to make some sense of it all in some way. They were stopping time on the shores of the powerful salty Caribbean Ocean and no holds barred all inclusive vacation. What more could anyone ask for.
The End